Day 14 Rainy Adventures Around Tokyo

We went hard yesterday. According to my fitbit, I walked a grand total of 22,213 steps which equates to 10 whole miles. Writing it down it doesn't seem like that much, but I was wearing a dress and sandals, and trust me my feet are feeling every single step I took. Poor right foot has a blister on the side of my heel the size of my thumb. I'll spare you gross blister pics. No one wants to see those.

I was kind of glad that I woke up to rain this Sunday morning. It meant a mostly inside day, and a chance to rest my poor feet. We did borrow some umbrellas from the hotel, then take a train in to Tokyo. Our goal was to check out Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, eat some wagyu beef, and buy a suitcase.

The Shinjuku National Garden is a huge park inside the city that features a traditional Japanese garden, a French formal garden, and English landscape garden. We thought the rain was letting up, but when we got to the park it started to pour! We were only able to explore the Japanese garden and the greenhouse, but it was all very beautiful.

After our rainy garden tour, we were hungry! Before we ever even dreamed about coming to Japan, both Ethan and I wanted to try Kobe beef. A lot of places in the US say that they serve real Kobe beef, but in reality, unless you feel like you need to take a mortgage out on your dinner, it's not real Kobe. Or even real wagyu for that matter. That's because Japan exports a very small quantity of this beef and it's actually not best served as a steak! We always assumed Kobe was the best. Turns out that that is not necessarily true. Kobe is a region that in Japan that is famous for their impeccable cattle, but wagyu beef is the type of beef raised from a specific breed of cow. That's what is advertised as "Kobe" beef in Japan. Basically, you're confused America. 

What makes the meat so special is the intense marbling throughout it. The cows are bred for their fat content, and are fed special diets to ensure the best quality meat. Rather than being served in steak form, the meat is typically served raw in the size of a credit card. The meat is then grilled immediately before consumption. These types of restaurants are called yakiniku.

Hot briquettes are placed in a cast iron bowl with a grill placed on top. Raw meats are then provided for the patron to grill to their own liking.

For the love of God was this the most delicious thing I have ever in my life put in my mouth.

After our amazing, life changing, totally awesome lunch, the rains stopped. And we explored Shinjuku. I think we stumbled into some kind of red light district. There were sketchy basement entrances with scantily dressed people calling you in. And then there were all of the billboards advertising different types of girls. Idk if they were strip clubs, actual prostitutes, or just porn shops, but it was weird and uncomfortable.

But shopping in Shinjuku was great. Totally awesome and weird at the same time. Seems to sum up a lot of Tokyo. We were able to get a suitcase (one of ours was overweight on the way in) and some cool souvenirs to bring home, like speakers that light up and shoot water to the beat of the music. I thought about buying  a little doggie kimono for Penny, but it was actually pretty expensive!

Day 7 (Part 2) Meiji Jingu

After the craziness of the festival at the Tsukiji fish market, we felt the need to do something that involved less people and hopefully some sitting. Tripadvisor suggested Meiji Jingu as the #1 Landmark to be seen in Tokyo. We had no idea what it was, but it looked like a park on the internet. So we hopped on a train and went there! It's good to know that if you're planning on traveling around Tokyo, you can buy an all day, unlimited metro pass for 600 yen ($4.86). An unlimited metro card in NYC is $31 (that's for a 7 day pass, the shortest duration available). Save your feet and invest in the unlimited pass.

Anywho, if you're interested in what the shrine is all about, it's dedicated to Emperor Meiji and his consort Empress Shoken. The Emperor was responsible for the modernization of Japan and is a highly revered figure here. When they passed away, in 1912 and 1914 respectively, 100,000 trees were donated from all over Japan and overseas to build a shrine and forest honoring their souls. All of the trees were planted by hand by volunteers. While the forest was carefully planned, today it cannot be distinguished from a natural forest. 

Very much like Central Park in NYC, the Meiji Jingu is an oasis of calm and green in the midst of a huge city. It was refreshing to walk under the tall trees, away from the hot sun for a little while.

Entrance into the park, made from 1,500 year old cypress

Sake tributes. We were very tired in this picture

The entrance into the main shrine

Beautiful woodwork

The main shrine

A traditional Shinto wedding was taking place

There were bonsai on display near the shrine. I'm not sure who the artist was, or how old the trees are because all the signs were in Japanese, but it was impressive work.

Close up of the sake offerings. I like the ones with the cherry blossoms!

Some fun stuff we saw while on the way back to Yokohama:

Pads...for your armpits. Honestly considered buying these. The humidity is REAL.

Just so many people!

Even the buses are adorable.

We were seriously dragging ass by the time we got back to Yokohama. We needed dinner, but neither of us were incredibly hungry, or feeling adventurous. So we opted for a British style pub right off the train station. We split some fish and chips and a mini shepherd's pie. Then someone may have been asleep by 9pm. Or maybe 8:45. And it certainly was not me. Nope. Not me. (ok....it was me).

All the liquors poured by gravity.

Zima is still a thing here.

Oh yeah...no forks or spoons for the food. That means fish and chips with chopsticks!

Day 7 (Part 1) Tsukiji Fish Market and Tsukiji Jishi Matsuri

We met a fellow American traveler yesterday on the way to Fuji. She was a little shocked when she found out that we hadn't actually planned anything and that we were just going with the flow. We asked for her recommendation of things to do in Tokyo. She mentioned that Sunday (6-14-15) there was going to be some kind of festival at the Tsukiji Fish Market. We had planned on going there eventually anyway, so we figured why not do it tomorrow and check out whatever this festival is.

Well turns out that this whatever festival was actually a pretty big deal. It was the very last Lion Dance Festival that will ever be held at the market, since it's moving next year. That and this festival only ever happens every 3 years. We're very lucky to have experienced this very special one. The Lion Dance festival is held over 5 days, which ends with a procession of mikoshi, or portable shrines, and giant statues of the heads of a male and female lion. Hence the name Lion Dance. Each town wears their own distinctive colors and dance the shrines up and down the streets of the market. There's lots of cheering, clapping, and of course drinking. We weren't really sure what was going on, so we just kind of stood back and observed.

 This street was so crowded for like 3 blocks that there was absolutely no way to get through. People were literally packed in like sardines.

Funky footwear worn by everyone in costume. 

E and I wandered the market in search of some delicious, but affordable seafood. Affordable is really key here because earlier this year a Tokyo sushi restaurant bought a 591 lb bluefin tuna at the market for over $735,000. That's $1,247 per pound!

 This crab is literally twice the size of my head, and $226! Someone bought it though. When we came back through 10 minutes later it was gone.

Yep, this vendor was selling whale. I wanted to try it, but a) it was really expensive b) completely sold out and c) I was pretty weirded out about the thought of eating Shamu

Holy mother of God is this some delicious looking tuna! This is Yellowfin.

Tuna roe

It was a shame that neither one of us was really hungry when we were surrounded by some of the best seafood in the world. It was so disgustingly hot and humid all we wanted was ice cream and water, lol. But we did find some little sampler sushi so we got to enjoy the market without wasting the experience by not being hungry.

Chu-toro. A cut of fish from the belly of the tuna, it's a medium fatty piece. O-toro is super fatty, and will literally melt in your mouth. This fish has the flavor of tuna, but coats your mouth with a delicious fatty feeling. Kinda like butter, but not as greasy or gross.

Ahi (yellowfin) akami, squid, salmon, and maguro (bluefin) akami. The yellowfin is a fattier species of tuna.

Crazy big oysters! The shells were the size of my hand. Obviously I had to eat one.

Delicious!

Grilled scallops

Super yummy

Some festival food finds:

That's a fried potato

Grilled mochi, or pounded rice balls

Natto, fermented soy beans.

Okonomiyaki, kind of like a pancake with meat, cabbage, and noodles

Fishy things on a stick. The white one is squid on a stick.

Takoyaki, batter balls stuffed with squid. Not my favorite thing :(

Chocolate covered bananas!

Notice the little chocolate filled Koala on the end? So excited for this snack! It was only 130 yen too!

Some random bits from around the market:

These are for resting your chopsticks while eating, so you don't put them directly on the table, but so they can't roll off your plate either.

Thank you sweet person who gave me a fish fan. It was desperately needed in the heat! 

Marlee the Fish Monger!

Random kimono model. She was doing a legit photo shoot. There were like 10 professional photogs following her and her buddy around.

Not sure if this guy was a mascot or dinner, but either way I'm sure he didn't appreciate those coins in his bucket.

I'm not sure why so many women waltz around in stilettos. We walked about 8 miles and my feet were KILLING me in tennis shoes.

We explored the Namiyoke Inari Shrine, it's name means protection from waves and is the unofficial shrine for the market and the fishermen and traders.

And of course, a cute uniquely Japanese sign.

Warning of heatstroke! Totally relevant for today